Wednesday, October 15, 2014

The New Limited-Edition Blancpain Bathyscaphe Chronograph

Blancpain Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Chrono - angle

Last week, Blancpain introduced its “Ocean Commitment” initiative at Cap d’Antibes in the South of France. This program will unite the manufacture‘s various activities to preserve and protect the world’s oceans as well as to increase public awareness through ocean exploration.

Of course, http://www.bienmontre.com/breitling-montres-replique-34 Blancpain will be introducing specific watch models in supporting this cause as well. The brand has unveiled the first piece in a series of limited-edition diving watches, the Blancpain Ocean Commitment Bathyscaphe Chronographe Flyback, which features Blancpain’s new high-beat F385 caliber along with an exclusive gray ceramic case and a blue dial and bezel.

The 43.6-mm Chronograph model of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe range was first introduced at this year’s Baselworld in two versions, one with a stainless steel case (Ref. 5200-1110…) and the other with a black ceramic case (Ref. 5200-130…). The new “Ocean Commitment” version (Ref. 5200-0240-052A) comes with a satin-brushed, gray ceramic case and a blue dial with ceramic inlay for “liquidmetal” inserts. The crown, bezel and chronograph pushers (which can be operated underwater) are made of ceramic as well. On the back of this 300-meter water-resistant dive watch, a sapphire window reveals the new 5-Hz in-house caliber with flyback function. The rotor has been specially decorated with the Ocean Commitment logo.

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Other differences from the standard version can be found on the subdial for the permanent small seconds hand: “Bathyscaphe” and “limited” are executed in a rounded style. And the 12 o’clock marker comes in a traditional diamond shape, with which we at diveintowatches.com immediately fell in love with.Depending on the lighting conditions, the gray-and-blue color combination produces a range of impressions, which start with a tactile look and end with a gorgeous, elegant appearance.

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Thursday, October 9, 2014

"Patek Philippe 175" Watch

Patek Philippe 175 Auction Interview With Head Of Christies Watch Department   sales auctions

As Patek Philippe celebrates their 175th anniversary, the major auction houses are celebrating too. Auction houses have done very well over the last few years, thanks to the brand's popularity among collectors, when it comes to their rarest and most exclusive timepieces. On November 9, 2014, in Geneva, Christie's will hold its "Patek Philippe 175" Replica watch auction in celebration of the brand's anniversary. This will be an exciting time, as Patek Philippe themselves will hold various celebrations, along with the unveiling of a new ultra-complicated timepiece, and fellow auctioneer Sotheby's will be auctioning off the famed Patek Philippe Henry Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, that is expected to fetch around $17 million.

To learn more about Patek Philippe timepiece success at auctions, as well as with collectors, I spoke to John Reardon, the International Head of Christie's Watch Department. A watch guy and seasoned watch sales expert, John Reardon is one of those people you want around if you have any questions related to watch valuation, rarity, or potential investment worthiness. John is also a diligent advocate of the watch auction process and Christie's, which is something important to keep in mind when reading his responses and suggestions. So with that said, let's examine some of the wisdom he has shared below about watch auctions in general about about the Patek Philippe 175 event.

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Like the vintage car market, the vintage watch market is where the smart money is making investments. The main reason the watch market is so hot, is that new vintage collectors are discovering the auction world for the first time – and they love the transparency and honesty of the auction experience. These new collectors, combined with an increased level of scholarship and knowledge of the watch collecting world is a recipe for success. Clearly, this market still has room to grow to unknown new highs.

In a world where expertise and authentication is critical, buying a vintage watch at auction is quickly becoming the safest way to transact when one wants to buy a vintage timepiece. There is a comfort knowing that you are competing for a watch, one that has been thoroughly reviewed by our team of experts. Also, it's just a part of human nature to be driven by the knowledge that others want something as badly as you do, and a great pleasure when you win at auction.

MeisterSinger Circularis Debuts New Bespoke Movement

MeisterSinger Circularis Debuts New Bespoke Movement With 5 Day Power Reserve   watch releases

We have come to know MeisterSinger as the maker of more uniquely styled single-hand watches, famous for their arguably strange-looking, and yet surprisingly legible dials. https://www.repwatchesguy.is/tag-heuer.htmlThe new Meistersinger Circularis brings no updates whatsoever to that easily recognizable face, but rather, it redefines what is behind it: a new and unique movement with twin in-series mainspring barrels and 5 days of power reserve.

The MeisterSinger Circularis will be available in a 43 millimeter wide stainless steel case, and either an ivory, sunburst silver, or dark blue colored dial. Other than the rather large case, there is nothing unusual here, so let's get down to business and discuss the "bespoke" MSH01 movement that renders this release a very important one in the history of the brand.

MeisterSinger claims that this bold new movement was designed from scratch by the brand's "long-standing cooperation partner in Switzerland." Sure, it is no news that the watch industry (much like any other in the world) is highly secretive, and yet, we feel a more open communication on its origin would be welcomed by the more discerning enthusiasts. We have reached out to the brand and have learned that their partner is Synergies Horlogères – a private label movement manufacturer now owned by Christopher Ward. The layout and the specs of the new caliber is a testament to the fact that a more experienced company was involved in its conception: the MSH01  hand-wound movement runs at a very modern and more accurate 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and, despite the relatively high operating frequency, it manages to offer five days of power reserve.

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There is a good chance that this movement could have had a 7-day long power reserve at a cost of a lower frequency of 3 Hertz, but we are glad to see that the brand preferred timekeeping accuracy, which the higher rate arguably offers, to an even more "marketing-friendly" 7-day version. The 120-hour long reserve is made possible by the two barrels which work "in line," meaning that a differential or other extra component is not necessary.



Sunday, September 28, 2014

Romain Jerome Titanic Day & Night II Watch

The controversial watch is back! Not too long ago Romain Jerome released the Titanic DNA Day & Night watch. It was the watch that didn't tell the time. Instead, it had two tourbillon cages. One that spun during the AM hours, while the other spun during PM hours. That was the sole use of the watch. It looked really look, and collectors everywhere fascinated by the concept. Now, less than a year later the Romain Titanic DNA Day & Night watch 2 has been announced and will be unveiled at Basel. The best part of the new watch? It now tells the time.

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The movement again is the RJ ONE made by BNB Concepts for Romain Jerome. The watch will be limited to only 9 pieces, and share the same traits as the original with some design tweaks. Notable is the more "aged" appearance and refined looks. The first Day & Night watch was a surprise hit, and it was actually one of Romain Jerome's retailers that requested another Day & Night watch. Because the original was a limited edition, they would have to make a new model, and Romain Jerome did. The 46mm wide case is mainly constructed out of steel and titanium, with carbon fiber in the mix. The strap is a very high quality crocodile, which matches the demeanor of the watch that tried to be avant garde and retro at the same time.

Surely the 9 pieces will sell out quickly if people are even asking for the watch. Don't forget, as is common with all Romain Jerome Titanic DNA watches, there is a bit of real Titanic ship metal in the case construction. Look out for this mechanical wonder at Basel soon. Prices are...well, for deep pockets only.


Skagen’s Flagship Swiss Movement Men’s Watch


I was curious as to what Skagen considered to be their flagship watch, so I asked them. The Danish brand has seemingly always been around in the watch world. Brands tend to have iconic looks and technologies that are imbued into flagship products that communicate the brand. Skagen's entire watch product line has a few common themes. These include use of minimalist design, titanium as often as possible, thin case profiles, function forward attitudes, Swiss movements, and reasonable prices. For 2009, http://www.iwatchclone.co/more-brands/tag-heuer-clone Skagen replied that the watch that communicates all these notions are the men's 585XLTMXB and 585XLTMXM watches. The difference between the two models is one is constructed of gray toned titanium, while the other uses a darker black toned titanium.

Let's go back a step while I give you my take on Skagen watches. A lot of the time I wake up and want to wear a serious "show me the money" watch. That isn't about glitz, but rather about "I am going to go out and conquer the day!" Other days I want to be more subtle, look at my watch to get the time. That is a Skagen appropriate day.  You'll find that most Skagen watches are gray. I feel that this helps them "blend" in, and a lot of the time that is what you want. Blending in isn't easy. It takes a smooth crisp design that works without effort. Skagen watches do this. They aren't a "show me" watch. They are a good go to watch when you just feel like being functional, and simple; qualities that are underrated a lot of the time.

The 585XLTMXB and 585XLTMXM watches are traditional two-hand (no seconds) watches with full titanium cases and bracelets. The faces are totally minimalistic with just the hour indicators and thin hands used for quick reference by the wearer, not everyone around him. I like how the crystal shape integrates with the bracelet design, something you don't see everyday. The watch case is thin at only 8mm, and the case is 38mm wide. A quartz movement powers the watches, and Skagen is nice enough to provide a lifetime movement warranty. They can easily do this as problems with the movements are very rare (and they don't cost that much anyway).

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I concur with Skagen that these should be considered flagship watches. They embody exactly what the brand wants to communicate, and will look good on just about anyone, without calling too much attention. As a gift, or as a watch for quieter days, a Skagen is a decent choice. Look for the 85XLTMXB and 585XLTMXM watches available soon. Retail price is $275, expect street price to be a bit less, in the many places Skagen watches are sold.

Sunday, September 21, 2014

Bell & Ross Watch



You can typically rely on Bell & Ross for nice, but predictable watches. This is still true, but this year at Baselworld the iconic French watch brand showed off a few new watches that you aren't likely to see in stores anytime soon (but others will be in store in no time at all). These are sometimes called novelty watches, which are one offs that a brand makes. Other times they are sold in limit edition quantities at select retailers. I am still not sure what the future for these watches is, but they are at least enjoyable to look at. If they are not to be sold, it is entirely possible that they will be design influences in future Replica Bell & Ross Watches that we eventually will see in retailers. So expect to see at least a few of these commercially available soon.

Let's start with my favorite, the Carbon Fiber Bell & Ross BR01 Pro Combat models. Actually, it is not the carbon fiber that I like at all, but the evolving look of the design. The three hand date model is my choice. The Chronograph version is a carbon fiber update of the BR01 Pro Titanium model that I discussed here. The The three hand model is the same watch without the chronograph complication and it looks like the numerals are a bit larger. That is now my current Bell & Ross holy grail watch. The titanium version was going for about $6,000 -$8,000. So figure out that for these models. Just beautiful technical looking watches fit for a SWAT team, or your daily commute home in the car. In the same image the watches on the right will be known as the Commando models.

I will briefly mention the BR01 Airborne watch that is the big controversy of 2009. Only a few people like the skulls and crossbones watch that is more pirate that pilot. With sword hands, and a luminescent skull shape face, it misses the point of what most Bell & Ross fans are looking for. Regardless, it is a limited edition and will find a home with a few fan taken by the design. Probably one of us Americans. In the same image is the Bell & Ross BR01 Airborne is the new Bell & Ross BR Heritage that is already available.http://www.wristwatchline.co/

Sunday, September 14, 2014

Panerai PAM305 Luminor Submersible 1950 Dive Watch

Panerai's new P9000 automatic movement line was the star for the watchmaker at SIHH this year. The entry level in-house made movement is meant to be a friendly rugged machine with function and reliability in mind. This is particularly seen in the watches that the new movement line showed up in. My favorite of which is this PAM00305 (PAM305), also known at the Luminor Submersible 1950. In addition to being Panerai's first exhibition back diving watch it also has a face without a number 12. This is the first time I have seen this on a Panerai watch, though I am admittedly not a Panerai superfan like some people out there. You have to give this watch a double-take to make sure it is in fact a Panerai, because that "12" always in the same font, is just SO Panerai. Actually the look is based on some historic Panerai diving watches.http://www.watchcopyline.is/iwc

Like many Panerai diving watches, the PAM305 is made of titanium, and is a lofty 47mm wide. I like the clean look of the design and the dial. The rotating diver's bezel has been seen before on other submersible models. The same complaint exists here, which is the lack of minute marks after 15 minutes. Despite this functional issue, the bezel looks nice. For me, the face of the watch is adequately styled to be a diving watch and a Panerai, though many Panerai watches faces often look a bare -as though something important was missing. Here it is the minute markers, but adding them would make it less of a Panerai. Look at the "1950" in the name, and you realize this is one of those classic homage watches. That makes it possible to forgive a few design quirks right? Oh, and is it just me, or do hands look misplaced? Like another set of Panerai hands out of the parts bin might have been a better choice. I know these are the standard hands for the submersible series, but still.http://www.watchcopyline.is/

Star Wars Watches

A deep sense of childish excitement erupted when I laid my eyes on these early renderings of the new Star Wars collection watches by Marc Ecko. The brand and trademark (for Marc Ecko watches) is now owned by the Timex group, who are probably going to do a good job at making Marc Ecko watches look much nicer. I have not always been a fan of the brand's offerings, see this article of mine here. Actually come to think of it, I don't see at all how a Star Wars themed watch fits into the Marc Ecko style at all, though I am perhaps missing something the designer did in the past. Regardless, who cares? These new watches are going to be pretty darn awesome! I don't really care what brand name is slapped on them as long as they look good and are done with decent quality standards.

For one thing, I don't think that this is going to be the whole collection, but rather 2-3 preliminary watch renderings, and there will be more. Plus, the watches will likely be split into a "Dark Side" line, and the reciprocal, which is "Light Side?" Maybe Jedi, or Rebellion? Something like that. Of course there have been Star Wars watches in the past, but these are something different. Why? Because instead of just printing the Rebel Alliance logo or Chewbacca's face on the dial of an otherwise plain-jane watch, the entire watch is built on a theme. Not just that, but there will be special features that each watch has including sound effects and more! Some of the basic features we will see is the Timex Indiglo dial lumination on the watches, as well as some with analog hands on top of a digital LCD screen face (see at least the Boba Fett watch). We will see what other cool stuff the final timepieces have.


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In addition to the special features each watch will have, there will be a number of different materials used in the watch including at least some metal, plastic (ideally on a marginal amount), nylon, and rubber. Hopefully enough metal to make them feel a bit bulky (a good thing). There will be different sizes for the watches as well. The pictured Boba Fett watch looks pretty tall, and comes in a 44mm wide case with a 22mm wide strap. Alternatively, the two different Storm Troopers watches will be 48mm wide and come with a 24mm wide strap - big and totally bitchin'.

So we have three basic watches so far. You can tell that each is well designed based on the actual characters or themes. For bounty hunter lovers, the Boba Fett watch is going to be the best. Each timepieces seems to be designed so that it would look good being worn on the actual characters they are designed after. Thus, the Boba Fett watch is designed to resemble his armor suit, and I think Timex did a good job with it. I like that it is large and substantial looking. It is actually designed with a case that is at an angle for slightly easier reading. Plus, it has those cool "battle damage" weathered effects that most items in the Star Wars universe are known for. I also like what appears to be a sporty looking wrap around strap. Lastly, there on the dial you can see the little Marc Ecko Rhino logo which probably looks better there than what would could have been a cheesily placed "Star Wars" logo.https://www.repwatchesguy.is/

Wednesday, September 3, 2014

The Bell & Ross BR-01 93 GMT Automatic Multi-Timezone Watch


Replica Bell & Ross Watch added a new complication to the BR-01 series with the BR-01 93. The BR-01 93 GMT adds the a second timezone function that is displayed with a second hour hand on a 24 hour graduated bezel. This automatic-winding timepiece is geared towards travelers. By setting the 24 hour clock to Greenwich Meantime, the local time can be calculated and set quickly and simply. The separate hour hands can also be used to display two preset times. The bold, clean BR-01 design lends itself well to the legibility of both times.

The automatic movement is the 2893 calibre from ETA, which gives the watch part of its name. It is a variant of the infamous 2892 and has 21 jewels, a power reserve of roughly 41 hours, and the usual incabloc anti-shock system. It is quite thin at 4,1mm, so the GMT Instrument remains about as thick as the basic BR-01 92. Because of its relatively low profile, this large square watch fits well on an average seven to eight inch wrist.

The dial is simply immaculate. To make room for the 24-hour-dial graduated inner bezel, B&R designers slightly reduced the size of the hour and minute graduations. A striking orange arrow indicates the hours of second timezone. "GMT" is painted in the same colour as the arrow for subtle contrast against the jet-black dial. Ever since the original limited edition BR Instruments - with orange numbers and hands - the company has been integrating subtle orange design elements on many of their models. You will notice orange hands or lettering in other models such as the Black and White BR-03 94, the BR-03 51 GMT, and the tonneau-shaped BR-02s.


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The two timezones are convenient. You will use this function often if, for instance, you have family in a different timezone or if you are a frequent flier. The 24 hour dial would also be convenient in outer space where sunshine does not determine whether it is day or night and the strong photo-luminescence of the hands and markers gives a clear view of both times in all light conditions. Keep this in mind for your next intergalactic sojourn. More important is that the distinct GMT function gives the BR-01 93 an attractive style that conforms to Bell & Ross' credo to never compromise function for the sake of design.

Thursday, August 28, 2014

Ultra Rare Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk Watch

This is why I love eBay, cause stuff like this shows up on it, and I have no idea how. You know that I love the Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk watch that I initially discussed here, and then once again here when I announced that Seiko was going to offer a limited edition Spacewalk Commemorative Edition of 100 pieces. Seiko originally made just 6 of the watches. It was made for Richard Garriot and worn by him into space.

That specific piece sold for over $45,000 several months ago. It now looks one of the rare 100 Commemorative Edition pieces is being auctioned off on eBay, brand new. Starting bid is $27,500 - just shy of the roughly $28,000 - $29,000 that the new Spacewalk Commemorative Edition models retail for being just now released. 100 pieces, and they are going to very hard to find.

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Temption CM05 Watch



I have a really strong affinity to the small, independent German watch maker Temption. I have two of their watches, the CGK203 and the Cameo (click on those links for my reviews). https://www.wristwatchline.co/tag-heuer.html Each year they try to release a new model, and I eager await what they have to share. Last year it was the beautiful Cameo, and this year is the CM05. While the Cameo was a totally new design for the brand, the CMO5 is more of an evolution on their classic look. Emphasis here is on build quality, and the simple design aesthetic that made the Cameo as popular as it was.

Temption is proud that the CM05 is totally screwed together. There are no rivets, studs, or pressed points (though the sapphire crystal might be an exception). As such, you can see the screws in the caseback and all over the bracelet. The case itself is in high-grade steel and 42mm wide and 11mm tall (very wearable). The case is 100 meters water resistant as well. The sapphire crystal is 2.6mm thick and domed for strength (also AR coated on the inside). It is a satisfying look and makes for a good every day wear.

The dial reminds me of UTS watches, and is very Germanic. Simple and highly functional with a Bauhaus theme. The dial is a matte black with a black on black Temption logo and a small frame around the centrally mounted date window (that is also a black disc). Temption places a black disc over the central axis of the hands to hide the connection point. It is a new style for them, even though others have done it. It keeps the look of the face cleaner. The hour markers and hands have luminant applied to them. It is a modern looking watch dial in a very pure form, with a distinct emphasis on understated artistry - exactly what many men are looking for. It is actually easy not to appreciate the dial at first, but look at it, think about it, and then look at it again in a little while and then see how you feel.

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Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Cartier Must Autoscaph 21 Watch

Here is one of those interesting Replica Cartier Watches that you don't see very often. Out of production for maybe a decade now, this is a rare, true sports watch from the 'fancy watch brand.' Many of you might be familiar with the Must 21 collection from Cartier. The chronograph is probably the most well known of the line. Though the Autoscaph 21 is sportiest version around. An interesting mixture of traditional Cartier elements and a sporty look. Only thing that may prevent people from sporting the Autoscaph today is the size. Medium at best, the little guy is just a hair under 37mm wide. Then again, it is perfect for the modern lady if she likes it.

Set in a steel case with a nice polished black stone cabochon in the crown, this is a Cartier watch all the way through. The bezel visually integrates into the sloped flange chapter ring right under the sapphire crystal. The steel on steel look is nice, but makes the dial look pretty small. Which it is. A design experiment if anything. Makes for a petite look that is mostly popular with women these days, but still has qualities that many like. The bezel with its classic looking Roman numerals is a little hint that our friend here isn't a pure sports watch. Cartier DNA is still dominant. I love the use of the repeating Cartier 'double C' logo on the dial. Hour markers are applied and covered with SuperLumiNova. Aside from it being small, the sporty looking dial is quite legible. Note the magnification lens over the date window, and that the date disc is black with lighter colored numerals (you know I love that look). Cartier did the same thing on the newer,

Cartier gives the watch a weird bracelet/strap. The first part of each is a link style bracelet with metal center links and black rubber segments. At the ends of the bracelet it turns into a strap with a told over Cartier tension clasp. Why they didn't want to make it a bracelet completely, I am not sure.  The case is water resistant to 100 meters by the way. Inside the watch is a Cartier Calibre 2137 automatic movement that is liked a base Swiss ETA. Not too easy to find (especially in the US), the Cartier Must Autoscaph 21 is really only found in pre-owned examples. Prices are in the $1,000 - $2,000 as far as I can see.

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UTS GMT 1000M Watch



There are a lot of boutique dive watches available right now, many sporting the same cases, dials and movements. Smaller companies can't afford the cost of a custom design, so after a while many look the same. UTS, on the other hand, makes its own cases from steel ingots; you'll not see their designs used elsewhere. An interesting mix of angular lugs and round body, the UTS cases wrap nicely around the wrist and have a massive 5mm bracelet as a matching option.

UTS has recently announced a new addition to the 1000m line, the 1000m GMT using the ETA 2893 movement. Otherwise the same as the diver Ariel reviewed, (Ed. - readers, please note that contributor Paul Hubbard wrote this article) the 24h hand and small UTC track really add to the appeal of this watch. Available in a variety of dial and hand colors, the high-contrast white on black really does it for me.


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Add in the two year warranty, two-layer SuperLuminova lume, anti-reflective sapphire crystal and you've got a winner. At $2,250 on strap and $2,549 on bracelet, this is an excellent value for a custom design.

Size is a reasonable 42mm by 15.4mm, 200g on the bracelet. The movement is the tracteur ETA 2893, the standard for GMT movements. It's not ideal - I prefer the modified versions as found in Omegas that allow the main hour hand to be moved in 1-hour increments - but still useful for tracking two or three timezones.

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Tissot Sculpture Line Moonphase “Baby Breguet” Watch



Likely no coincidence that Tissot Replica Watch created a timepiece like this and both Tissot and Breguet are under the same umbrella company - the Swatch Group. While Tissot is best known in the US for their awesome T-Touch timepieces,and other sport watches, they do actually offer some nice classy pieces as well (though a good deal of those are harder to find in the US). Tissot sits as a high-value, entry-level luxury watch portal for the Swatch Group. They are actually in sort of the same boat with Certina watches (also Swatch Group, but those are very hard to find in the US).

So new from Tissot is this Sculpture Line Moonphase watch - which I nicknamed the "Tissot Baby Breguet." Why? Well, because the design is just that. Tissot borrowed elements from Breguet such as the machine "guilloche" engraved textured dial, dial layout, and gold case. Yes, in fact this Tissot watch will come in an 18k white or rose gold case. Making this a top-level Tissot timepiece. Tissot timepieces don't often come in gold, so this is a rare type of model.

The watch case is 42.5mm wide and relatively thin at 11.5mm thick. The watch has a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 30 meters. Unlike Breguet, the case is polished and smooth around the edges (Breguet likes a fluted edge on their watches). Tissot also changes up the dial design a bit with more modern looking baton hands (as opposed to pomme hands), and modified Breguet style Arabic hour markers. The off-centered power reserve indicator is retained near 10 and 11 o'clock, while the moonphase indicator has been elegantly built in to the subsidiary seconds dial. It makes for a handsome look highly reminiscent of the look that Breguet made famous.

Powering the watch is of course a mechanical movement. Here it is a modified Swiss Unitas 6498 manually wound movement. I have seen this movement (well, almost identical 6497) with a power reserve indicator (see this UTS watch here), but the addition of the moon phase indicator is new to me. The watch is matched to a brown crocodile (I think) strap with a gold butterfly clasp.

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Overall I quite like this watch - it has a nice satisfying design to it. Not sure about price, but I promise (promise) that it will be much less expensive than a Breguet. For a classy dial, solid gold case, and fine Swiss character, this Tissot Sculpture Line Moonphase watch might be the way to go. Just don't call it "Baby Breguet" to its face.

Ulysse Nardin Royal Blue Tourbillon Watch


Massive money and massive presence.This Royal Blue Tourbillon by Replica Ulysse Nardin Watch is a no-holds-barred super haute horlogerie watch by a brand not hiding the fact the watch is meant to be a statement. Love it or leave it, this watch is a jaw-dropper. Price is $1,000,000 big ones.

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Wednesday, August 6, 2014

Tissot Seastar 1000 Automatic Chronograph Watch

It does not surprise me that this year we get a new Seastar watch from Tissot, but this particular neat design wasn't expected. There is something retro about it - likely the thinner rotating diver's bezel - but it has a nice modern looking dial. Detail is pleasant and the functionality seems sound for this circa $1000 timepiece collection.

The dial will come in a few colors. Seen here are just two of them being black dial with white and blue accents, as well as the black and orange dial. Having two different tones of blue is a benefit to the black and blue one (call it bruised, I dare you). Tissot Replica Watches Features such as a small but present and sloped flange ring as well as slightly depressed subsidiary dials give the dial a higher end look. The dial is also pretty easy to read thanks for the slick layout. The hands and hour markers are coated with SuperLumiNova.

One this I don't get is the Seastar "1000" name. The case is water resistant to 300 meters not 1000. At least when you have a numerical value attached to the same of a dive watch you assume it related to the depth rating. In this instance that isn't the case and it is confusing. It would just be the Seastar Chronograph or something like that.

Tissot gave this new Seastar a hell of a case making it 48mm wide in steel with some black in the bezel. I am also told that a blue PVD coated steel case will also be available. I look forward to checking that piece out. The case design is pretty intricate and there is an automatic helium release valve on the side of the case which is a nice feature to have. The case also has a sapphire crystal.

Inside the watch is the newer Swiss ETA calibre C01.211 automatic chronograph movement. This is the same movement used in the popular Swatch Automatic Chrono watch that I reviewed here. The movement is designed to be a lower cost version of the ETA Valjoux 7750 - though it is actually based on the older Lemania 5100. Swatch needed to give the 7750 some visual marketability, so they intentionally left some things out of the C01.211. For instance that hour counter for the chrono goes up to 6 hours versus 12. Is there a technical reason for that? Not at all. But the 7750 loses steam if a movement much less expensive than it does the same thing. The C01.211 isn't as pretty at the 7750 of course, but does have a neat industrial look to it. Unlike the Swatch Automatic Chrono, Tissot decided to open up the back more for a full exhibition view of the caseback. They use an automatic rotor with a rich pattern on it to spruce up the movement.

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The watch comes with your choice of metal bracelet or rubber strap. I am not sure of all the options, but there should be a fair number of varieties of this watch. Tissot likes big releases with lots of options, so I expect the Seastar 1000 Automatic Chronograph to be no different.

Rolex Explorer 2 Watch


For 2011 Rolex offers a new Explorer 2 to follow up last year's new Explorer. While the Explorer was bumped up to 39mm last year, the Explorer 2 is the Replica Rolex sport watch with a modern size of 42mm in width. That is 2mm larger than the Submariner, and it likely wears better than the 43mm wide Submariner Deep Sea. Also new is the return of the orange GMT hand in addition to the Maxi-dial like size of the hands and hour indicators.

In a 42mm wide case, the Explorer 2 is in 904L steel with a mix of polished and brushed surfaces. While known for its white dial, the Explorer 2 now comes with a black dialed version as is traditional for the line - both in lacquer. Contrast on the dial on both models remains excellent, with the signature large orange GMT hand remaining on the dial. Both dials feature "Chromalight" luminant. The hands are all in white gold. I have had arguments with people about Rolex hands being in white gold. While not all of them are, many of the newer Rolex models have white gold hands. Says it right here in the Rolex material!

The case looks great with its steel on steel fixed 24 hour bezel. It is water resistant to 100 meters. Sapphire crystal is double AR coated and has a date magnifier lens. Inside the watch is an in-house made Rolex caliber 3187 COSC Chronometer certified automatic. It has the time, date, and GMT hand - and a 48 hour power reserve. Would have been great to see the watch have the glide-lock clasp of the Submariner, but then the Explorer would encorach on its territory.

It has a steel bracelet with an Oysterlock clasp and Easylink 5mm comfort extension link. Not sure exactly what that is yet, but it sounds like a nice microadjust system. Rolex offers yet another watch we all want. Funny how something like "42mm wide" is enough to get me excited in the Rolex context. This and the new Daytona styles are the big news for Rolex this year - the 36mm wide models are looking smaller and smaller!

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Wednesday, July 30, 2014

IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia Watch



What you are seeing here is the most complicated IWC watch ever created. It is called the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia (ref. 5041) and it will be available only via custom order. IWC Replica Watch recently launched it at a powerful celestial observatory in Chile, and it represents a new high-mark for the brand. While the watch itself is very interesting, the lesson it can teach us about how high-end watch brands operate is even more interesting.

According to IWC a team of watch makers spent about 10 years researching and developing the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia mechanism. While at least one other IWC watch offers more complications, the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia is a much more complicated watch. Strictly for the die-hard collector, this timepiece according to IWC CEO Georges Kern is a “dreamlike” machine. It holds within it the values a serious watch brand wishes to convey as well as those aspirational qualities that a super high-end watch should have. It is meant to be an item of wonder, something that beguiles and intrigues more than something which has a serious utilitarian use.

In a candid interview Georges Kern has recent with Swiss paper Le Matin, he spoke clearly as to the purpose of the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia watch. It is to attract people to the brand, show off IWC’s technical capabilities, offer media bait as something to discuss, and provide an ultra-exclusive piece for the world’s top watch collectors (something which IWC did not previously offer). The project was never really intended to be a money maker. IWC will be happy to sell 10 of them per a year – and with the current market situation as it is, IWC expects most of them to go to Asian clients. The Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia will however also act as an eye lure at IWC brand boutiques around the world with it in the window.

IWC carefully chose the complications its new flagship piece was to offer. It has been well established that astrological complications are among the most alluring to high-end collectors and buyers. These complications tend to be less than necessary to their lives, but encapsulate the emotion and feeling one wants from a complex timing machine. There seems to be a strong connection to astronomical timing and prediction, that is shared among high-end watch lovers. I too am fascinated by such timepieces whose indications can predict or dictate what is happening in the skies. While purely emotional, it makes me feel like I have some special increased power over the heavens.

For this emotional reason IWC chose the Paranal Observatory operated by the European Southern Observatory in Chile to unveil the new creation. The watch and the observatory don’t have any specific connection to one another, but the themes are the same. Complex astrnomical watches should be debuted at a complex astronomical viewing instrument location.

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Kern’s purpose for the IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia watch is sound, and I appreciate how openly he discussed the business aspects behind the timepiece’s creation. So you probably want to know a bit about the watch itself right? It is a fascinating device, and I imagine it will sit in its comfy container most of the time. Being manually wound, the box IWC ships the watch in will contain a special crown winding mechanism so that it is always powered. Winding boxes for manually wound movements are rare, but a highly appreciated accessory for a watch like this.

Sinn 358 Chronograph Watches

Sinn 358 Chronograph Watches   watch releases
Almost under the radar comes this new Sinn 358 watch. Did I intend to make that initial statement because this is a pilot watch? No but it works. I love timepieces like this that are all tool and do not look like they are made to be worn by tools. German Sinn watches continue to make me happy for mostly dismissing the pressures of the high-end watch world to upmarket all decent watches out there. Not that Sinn watches are cheap, but rather that they mostly feel fairly priced.

The 358 collection is a good sign because it shows Sinn increasing the sizes of a few of their core collection watches. In essence, the 358 is a larger version of the outgoing 356. http://www.wristwatchline.co/breitling.html At 42mm wide, the 358 offers a more modern and Western-appealing version of the 356′s 38.5mm wide case. The case is done in bead-blasted steel and comes with an acrylic domed crystal. Why acrylic? Sinn claims it is better for shock-resistance, but they also thankfully offer a sapphire crystal as an option (standard on some models). Actually to be perfectly accurate each of the three 358 models have different “standard” parts. Though it seems as though most of those parts and features can be optioned around. Basically you can get the model 358 of your choice through Sinn easily enough via a special order.

Another option is an air dehumidifying system that Sinn uses in many of its watches to remove potential moisture that can build up in the dial and cause condensation or fogginess. This can be a problem during quick rises or descents in a plane or just when rapidly changing climates (think of walking outside into hot humid air from an air-conditioned building). You can learn more about this technology here, and Sinn watches with it will have a little “Ar” logo on the dial. By the way, Sinn Ar watches only come with sapphire crystals.

Water resistant to 100 meters, the 358 is also highly antimagentic (with the solid caseback), and low pressure resistant. These are serious tool watches for serious use. The basic 358 model is called the 358 Pilot, which then goes up to the 358 Sa Pilot (Sa stands for “sapphire”), topping out with my favorite model, the 358 DIAPAL. I went into some detail a few years ago on what DIAPAL is here. You can read about it direct from Sinn here. DIAPAL is basically a oil-free (no lubrication) escapement that Sinn developed some years ago. Others have followed suit. This increases the lifespan of the watch and ensure more trouble-free usage. Sinn gives each of their DIAPAL watches metallic charcoal gray dials so you can them apart easily. I love the idea of these system in watches as such as this. The 358 Diapal is the top-of-the-line model in this collection and when combined with a metal bracelet is sure to be a hell of a watch. Don’t forget it also has a GMT hand that is easy to miss.

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Speaking of bracelet, these watches are available with a range of straps and a single metal bracelet option at this time. The dial is classic, legible, and stately. It is probably the epitome of German watch incarnate. Little details come out with close inspection such as how the chronograph subdials are all different and optimized for easy reading. People today will feel it is a bit retro, but that is totally in. I have a feeling they will find it fashionable as well, something which is good, but also nothing Sinn seems to be concerned with.

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Wednesday, July 23, 2014

HYT H1 Hydro Mechanical Watch



Allow me to officially debut liquid timekeeping to you. I teased the HYT H1 watch here recently by showing off the movement and the teaser video (more images there too). Now I can show you the full watch and discuss all that it is. In short, the HYT (Hydro Mechanical Horologists) brand will be dedicated to producing watches with liquid in them. The debut model is called the H1.

HYT CEO Vincent Perriard called the first "new" Concord watch the C1 when he was the CEO there a few years ago. https://www.repwatchesguy.is/tag-heuer.html There is a lot of similarity here in terms of the modernist conceptualization and presentation of the concept. Though the H1 is something altogether new. The watch uses a liquid filled chamber to display the hours using luminescent green goo in a circular tube. Two bellows are used to push and pull the liquid to show the time on the scale. These bellows are operated by the movement. The minutes are displayed in the center of the face with a dedicated dial, and there is a water turbine style subsidiary seconds hand to the left of it. On the right is a power reserve indicator for the mechanical movement.

Nothing like this has been done before. HYT claims that there are seven pending patents for this watch alone. The brand worked with a number of consultants to produce the movement. They have fancy names like Preciflex and Chronode - and are among the elite group of horological engineers in Switzerland that are able to make stuff like this a reality. This is probably one of the most interesting watches to view while adjusting the time.

Pistons in the movement move the bellows. As one expands the other one compresses which moves the liquid. The green colors comes from "fluorescein" which I am going to venture to say is not safe to drink. According to HYT the watch is designed with as much shock protection as possible to ensure the systems are kept safe and that you can wear the watch as normal.

Bremont ALT1-WT World Time Watch



For all intents and purpose this new Bremont ALT1-WT is the commercial version of the exclusive Bremont C-17 Globemaster watch that I discussed here. While the C-17 (C17) Globemaster was not to be available for public purchase, the ALT1-WT will be. The watch takes the brand's signature aviator style and adds a world time bezel and GMT indicator into the mix of complications.https://www.choopopwatches.co/product-category/hublot/ It makes for a very good travel watch and I am glad that Bremont decided to offer a version of the Globemaster for "everyone else."

The ALT1-WT will be positioned as one of Bremont's new for 2012 watch models. But there will be other models as well. The differences between this model and the Globemaster are minor - being mostly the caseback and dial changes as far as I can tell. Bremont makes it clear that this watch is an adoption of the C-17 Globemaster. The case done with specially hardened steel and is 43mm wide. The most recognizable element is the rotating city ring that is to be used in conjunction with the 24 hour hand. This gives you the time all around the world at a glance and the design here is well-done. Bremont uses their Roto-Click system for the inner rotating bezel that offers distinct positions for the bezel turns. It is a nicely satisfying little detail. You can tell that the city ring is different on this model compared to the Globemaster (that has airport indicators).

You can see that the "globe" motif on the watch face is also carried over from the Globemaster - this is likely to become a signature design feature of the watch. I like that the hour markers are prominent and applied, and that the hands and hour markers are all richly coated with lume. You also have rather good proportions in all the hands. I am a bit concerned that because the chronograph seconds hand and GMT hand have arrow tips they might be easily confused when wanting to read the second time zone at a glance. As is the case with most Bremont watches the domed sapphire crystal will be richly AR coated.

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Inside the watch is the Bremont caliber BE-54AE automatic movement that is a base ETA with a module that has been finely finished and regulated by Bremont. They always offer really nice movement decoration, and this one again will be visible through the sapphire caseback window. The movement will further be a COSC certified Chronometer. Going back to the dial I still really like the shape of the date window (it is dated from the HUD display on C-17 planes).

Thursday, July 17, 2014

Cartier Astrotourbillon Carbon Crystal Limited Edition Watch



Cartier recently wowed watch nerds with the rather impressive Cartier ID Two concept watch. Those with the budget to even theoretically purchase one are likely to be disappointed that the ID Two (like the ID One watch) will never be for sale.However, at the same time Cartier announced the ID Two, it also announced the limited edition Rotonde de Replica Cartier Astrotourbillon Carbon Crystal watch that incorporates some of the technology and will be for sale.

The Cartier Astrotourbillon (hands-on here) originally came out about two years ago. The super cool watch had an in-house Cartier made movement that was a re-think of the traditional tourbillon escapement. The "astrotourbillon" - as they called it - was an escapement mechanism that spun around the periphery of the dial as a running seconds indicator, just like a hand. Personally, I instantly fell in love with the concept when seeing it in action for the first time at SIHH. Last year Cartier released a Calibre de Cartier Astrotourbillon (hands-on) version of the watch in the Calibre style case. That same case style by the way is what Cartier used for the ID Two.

The Astrotourbillon Carbon Crystal watch will come in a 47mm wide niobium-titanium case. I believe this is the same material Cartier used for the ID One. This is a shiny looking special form of titanium that looks pretty kick-ass actually. It also sounds like a mineral some evil corporation would travel to another planet to unethically extract. But I digress (well it is more plausible sounding than "unobtainium")... The look of the watch is actually very legible and masculine with its white and gray tones. The hands and Roman numeral hour indicators are bright and easy to see. The Astrotourbillon is much more visible than ever because the center dial "island" has been skeletonized and more of how the movement works is viewable. This looks like how the Astrotourbillon was always meant to be appreciated. It is hard not to love this watch. With their considerable capital and clever designers, Cartier continues to impress us with their high(er)-end division timepieces that actually do successfully combine traditional Cartier grace with mechanical excellence and interest.

Carbon crystal (which again is Cartier's own name for diamond coated silicon) is used to produce the tourbillon bridge, pallet assembly parts, and escapement wheel. The escapement as a whole does not require any lubrication and is adjustment free (which was the main accomplishment of the ID One). So you can see that the technology has in a sense trickled down to obtainable watches. The first brand that I know of to promote its use of diamond-coated silicon is Ulysse Nardin - who basically purchased a company that makes it. Cartier is said to work with a company called Diamaze for its carbon crystal. I think they feel that silicon (silicium) parts are becoming too common, and for marketing purposes wanted to use another name - especially because from a visual perspective silicon parts are usually blue, and these are clear.

Batman The Dark Knight Rises Limited Edition Jaeger-LeCoultre Watch



For many people, today July 20th, 2012 is another "Batman" day as the latest movie hits theaters. The third Chris Nolan Batman movie opens and brands are eager to capitalize on Bat-fever. In the The Dark Knight Rises Bruce Wayne (played by Christian Bale) wears a Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grande Date. I look forward to seeing if that is a noticeable detail.

On the rear of the flippable case is an engraved and lacquered Batman logo as is used specifically in The Dark Knight Rises movie. The front of the case is the art-deco looking black dial of the Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 watch. It comes in a steel case, and should be a nice piece to wear for those who want to recall (supposedly) the final of the three Chris Nolan Batman movies.

Surprisingly this is not the first watch Jaeger-LeCoultre made for a Batman movie. A very similar limited edition Reverso watch was made several years ago when Batman Forever was released. The press release from Jaeger-LeCoultre isn't clear on how many pieces will be made or where they will be available. However, it does hint to the fact that they should be in Jaeger-LeCoultre brand boutiques in Los Angeles, London, Geneva, and Hong Kong.

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Friday, July 11, 2014

Autodromo Monoposto Limted Editon Watch

Autodromo Monoposto Limted Editon Watch   watch releases
When Autodromo debuted earlier this year, they did so with an interesting and distinct line of watches that were exclusively quartz powered. Nine times out of ten, the average watch nerd would likely prefer a mechanically powered watch and this is just what Autodromo has announced with their newest model.http://www.wristwatchline.co/breitling.htmlThe new Autodromo Monoposto is the brand's first mechanical model and it is a beautiful one at that.

The Monoposto is built around a 43 x 10 mm stainless steel case with wire-style lugs and a distinctly vintage vibe (aside from the admittedly modern sizing). Exposed above the dial is a domed KL glass crystal which has a sapphire coating. "Monoposto" translates to "single seat" and the crystal on the Monoposto features a red strip that is meant to recall the days before race cars had rev limiters. Mechanics had to apply a red strip to the glass on a car's tachometer so that the driver would have a way to quickly check if they were pushing the engine too hard. While I think that this may cause some confusion (at-a-glance) with the also-red seconds hand, the overall look is pretty cool and it certainly fits the aesthetic they have developed across the Autodromo line up.

The Monoposto is powered by a Miyota 821A Japanese automatic movement which offers a three-hand display with date and a power reserve of 42 hours. The 821A is a new revision of the 8215 auto we have used seen in many watches in the past. Like the 8215, the 821A does allow for hand winding but does not offer hacking (a stopping of the seconds hand when the crown is pulled out for time setting). With a quoted timekeeping of -20~+40 seconds a day, the 821A is certainly an entry level movement, but it should prove to be as dependable and cheap to service as its predecessor. Additionally, the Monoposto is fitted with a display case back which allows a view of the movement within.

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Autodromo is making just 500 examples of the Monoposto, half with a black dial and half with silver. Selling directly through Autodromo's website, the Monoposto costs $875 USD and includes a leather strap and a numbered presentation box. I think the Monoposto is beautiful and certainly Autodromo's best looking watch to-date. The wire lugs, domed crystal and minimal dial design are perfect and nicely exhibits the care and attention to detail that Autodromo invested in the Monoposto design. Given the price point, it would have been nice to see a sapphire crystal or even an uprated Miyota 9015 ticking within. That said, the fairly lack-luster movement is made good my a beautiful design that should appeal to anyone who loves the idiosyncrasies and beauty of vintage automotive design.

Sunday, July 6, 2014

Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Tech



 Linde Werdelin has announced two new limited edition models for their SpidoLite II series of luxury sport watches. The new LW SpidoLite II Tech features two variations of a watch that takes the recognizable SpidoLite II platform and moves it into the next generation as far as case construction and materials are concerned. http://www.iwatchclone.co/more-brands/tag-heuer-clone The SpidoLite II Tech boasts case composition which employs both forged carbon and Linde Werdelin's own ALW, a proprietary metal alloy that is the result of two years worth of research and development.

The Tech series shares the same 44 x 15mm case proportions as the rest of the SpidoLite II family and shares a similar look with a two-piece skeletonised dial, sub seconds at nine, and a date display at three. What sets the new Tech models apart is their high tech case construction, which is comprised of an inner case made of ALW (Alloy Linde Werdelin) and an outer case fashioned from forged carbon fibre. ALW is an metal alloy that Linde Werdelin reports to be 50% lighter than titanium while still being as strong as steel. The inner case assembly of the SpidoLite II Tech is hardened to offer a final assembly that is not only stronger than steel, but also colored either red or green (the colorful inner case can be seen through the skeletonised elements of the forged carbon exterior, very cool).

The outer case may carry the same skeletonised design that we've seen on past SpidoLite models, but it is now produced out of extremely light and strong forged carbon. The design then branches off to create two distinct variations including the Gold, which is fitted with an 18k rose rose gold bezel and crown, or the Green, which has a stealthy black ceramic bezel and a titanium crown that has been treated to a ceramic coating. The movement used for the SpidoLite II Tech is the same LW 04 used in other SpidoLite II models and is manufactured for Linde Werdelin by the Swiss movement maker Concepto.

New Cyrus Kambys Watch Will Be Part Of Only Watch



Cyrus, a boutique high-end Swiss watch brand will soon unveil their new Kambys watch at Baselworld 2013 with a movement designed by the very well regarded Mr. Jean-Francois Mojon.http://www.wristwatchline.co/breitling.html Using a curved case typical to the brand, the 50mm wide watch contains an impressively designed movement produced (according to the brand) 100% in-house (rubies and all).

This is also the very first timepiece that has been announced that will be part of the Only Watch 2013 auction in Monaco. According to Cyrus, the very first model in this limited edition Kambys collection will be auctioned off at the event in September.

The most interesting element of the Kambys is the power reserve indicator. The manually wound caliber 7778 movement has a power reserve of seven days. It uses three stacked cylinders on the right-side of the case which slowly fall as the power reserve indicator goes from full to empty. We wouldn't call it a technical improvement, but it is merely something new and interesting for otherwise bored watch lovers. The caliber 7778 movement doubles as the watch dial, offering the time with subsidiary seconds dial and another feature that Cyrus call their "secret animation." Using a pusher in the left-side crown, the disc located at about 10 o'clock spins to reveal one of three pictures. One image is the Cyrus brand logo, the next is an image of their brand mascot (a 2,500 year old coin) and last, the number of the piece in the limited edition. According to Cyrus, if any of this bores you, then they are happy to produce custom secret animation images for you.

The Cyrus Kambys watch will be limited to 188 pieces in each of the case materials. Which will be titanium, DLC black coated titanium, as well as 18k red gold. A timepiece like this is in many ways a pure collector's item for those interested in whimsical complications that express a sense of mechanical art versus technical prowess.

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Sunday, June 29, 2014

One Kickstarter Project Certainly Thinks So

Smartwatches Hot? One Kickstarter Project Certainly Thinks So   watch industry news

Once again, it seems that Ariel’s theory (here) that we are on the way to a consumer-grade smart watch is well on-track to being proven true. While this latest Kickstarter project doesn’t hit all of the points he made, it is advancing us further along the path.

The new HOT Watch (yeah, a goofy name, but it ostensibly stands for “Hands On Talk” – more on that in a minute) is from a Dallas firm we’ve never heard of before – PH Technical Labs. As you might guess from the name, http://www.je-montre.com/tag-heuer-c-43.html this is a company that’s no stranger to electronics, but this is their first watch as far as I can tell. Fortunately, this is one of the nicer-looking watches we’ve seen in the segment, no doubt helped by the design work of Michael Foley (another name I’ve never heard of, and couldn’t turn up any info). One surprising bit of the design is how thin the watch is. Coming in at only 8mm thick, this should make for a very compact watch (hopefully battery life isn’t lost in that tradeoff – estimated standby life is 3 days).

One of the more intriguing things about this watch is its use of built-in gestures (relying on the accelerometer and gyroscope in the case). The star of this show, though, is the fact that this watch can do something that is being labeled as “private calling”. In short, when you receive a call, you raise your hand to your ear, and the phone picks up and you talk away. This is courtesy a speaker (and microphone) that live on the underside of the strap, enabling the sound to be amplified by your cupped hand (kind of like putting a phone in an empty water glass). Hopefully it doesn’t add much bulk while you’re pretending to be Dick Tracy or Michael Knight (via the Knight Rider).

Inherently, that definitely has some “wow” factor, that’s for sure. That said, I certainly wouldn’t want to have my hand to my head for a lengthy call. I picture something like this being handy for a quick call to home or the office, or perhaps for a private chat on a mass transit commute where you could prop your arm up. Regardless of the situation, it would be fun to try out. Oh, and then when you’re done talking? You can simply wave bye-bye (yes, literally wave your hand) and the call will be hung up. I don’t know about you, but I’d feel pretty foolish waving at nothing (especially after people saw you talking to your hand). Fortunately, you can also dismiss the call utilizing the multi-touch capable e-ink screen.



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The HOT Watch also has a few other capabilities built in that I’m surprised no other smart watch has taken advantage of (at least, out of the box – no telling what 3rd-party developers may come up with). The first calls to mind a commercial that it seems I saw constantly during summer reruns growing up – the one for the LifeAlert bracelet. You know the one – “Help, I’ve fallen, and I can’t get up!” In that same vein, the HOT Watch can detect when you’ve fallen and, after a set amount of time, fire off a text message to a designated emergency contact.

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TAG Heuer Link Calibre 18 Watch: Mid-Size Chronograph

Need another flavor of TAG Heuer Link? The newest chronograph version of the iconic collection will be this Link Calibre 18 watch – a new Link with a new movement for TAG Heuer. https://www.choopopwatches.co/product-category/tag-heuer/ The Swiss brand revamped the Link collection with an updated case and bracelet back in 2011. Since that release we aren’t aware of too many new Link models until now with the Calibre 18. So what is new? TAG Heuer adds to the three register Link Calibre 16 chronograph with this two register model. The Calibre 18 automatic movement is a base Sellita SW300 (ETA 2892 analog) with a chronograph module produced by Dubois-Depraz.

The Calibre 18 is very similar to the Calibre 12 movements (found in Monaco collection pieces for example). Unlike the larger Link Calibre 16 watches (with base 7750 movements) that are 43mm wide, the Calibre 18 watches are 40mm wide, and considered slim at 14.4mm thick. That isn’t slim per se, but “slimmer” for a chronograph watch. These new mid-sized Link models feature fresh dials and fit into the popular bi-compax (two register) chronograph look that many brands are gravitating toward.

TAG Heuer will offer the Link Calibre 18 in both a black dialed (ref. CAT2110) model and a silvered dialed (ref. CAT2111) version. In a big way you can see these mid-range two register chronographs as being more affordable versions of TAG Heuer’s ultimate two register chronograph movement, the Calibre 36, which you can find in some high-end Carrera models and is essentially a Zenith El Primero high-beat chronograph. Prices for those starts at 7,500 Swiss Francs, while you can get a Link Calibre 18 for 4,900 Swiss Francs soon.

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Tuesday, June 24, 2014

Chanel Announces J12 Moonphase 38MM Watch

Chanel Announces J12 Moonphase 38MM Watch   watch releases
The last really new J12 from Chanel was the Chromatic that aBlogtoWatch debuted to the world here. Back in 2011 when Chanel released the Chromatic it upped the ante for Chanel's "ownership" of ceramic as a luxury material with a new metallic gray material that mixed ceramic with titanium. Chanel really started its own ceramic revolution with the original J12 watch about a decade ago. In black or white, it was anything but a polarizing design as the J12 is still beloved by many.http://www.watchesyoo.net/tag-heuer-watches-replicas-100.html Having said that - even though I think the J12 is a nice men's watch - it was women who found it the most interesting.

Now, in late 2013 Chanel adds a new character to the J12 collection with the J12 Moonphase. The added moon phase complication is being debuted in a range of models that span from a classic white J12, to a Chromatic model, and even a totally jewel encrusted limited edition model (actually two of them). Though for now, the J12 Moonphase will be available exclusively in the 38mm wide size. Let's take a look at the new J12 Moonphase which offers a bit more than just a new complication.

Chanel produced a very lovely video to go with the launch of the J12 Moonphase collection. Unfortunately, it has very little to do with phases of the moon. Chanel is first and foremost a fashion company and they full-well know that moon phase complications are more emotional than practical. I usually don't like "hand style" versus "disc style" moon phase indicators, but Chanel did a lot here to make their moon phase indicator dial very beautiful, and easy to read. Borrowing from a number of classic timepieces, they use a serpentine-style hand against an aventurine dial. Aventurine is a sparkly blue stone that does a good job of mimicking the night sky. I was happy to see it used here and feel that it was a smart and high-class aesthetic choice for Chanel.

Though this does open up an interesting question. Why produce a new collection of ladies' watches that focuses on a complication? Over the last few years - especially high-end watch makers - have been pushing the idea that more and more women are interested in horology versus strictly fashion and aesthetics. While there are many very passionate female watch lovers, it hasn't been my experience that a lot of women are too concerned with complications. So I find it interesting that Chanel sees a lot of potential marketing what is essentially an astronomical complication-focused product.

Though if you absolutely had to go with a complication (aside from the time and date) that reside in a high-end fashion-oriented timepieces for mainly women, I think a moon phase indicator is a clever choice. It is an emotional complication helping to understand the phases of the moon - which in turn controls everything from tides to perhaps tempers. What is further interesting is how the inclusion of the moon phase dial altered the iconic look of the J12 dial. This is very much a fresh face if you look at the details.

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First of all, on the dial you have a new shorter seconds hand that tracks the inner scale and follows the hour hand rather than the minute hand. This of course is done to keep it separate from the pointer date hand. Chanel uses a hand rather than window to indicate the date, which again is new for the series and borrowed from more traditional watches. Another interesting change is to the bezel. No longer a rotating bezel, the now fixed bezel is thinner with either simple baton markers... or of course diamonds.

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Zenith El Primero 410 Limited Edition Calendar Chronograph Watch


Hot on the heels of the incredibly cool El Primero Lightweight, Zenith has launched another limited edition El Primero, dubbed the 410 LE. The 410 is based on a very rare vintage El Primero model from the 70's that looked almost identical, save for the original model's smaller 38mm case. https://www.repwatchesguy.is/tag-heuer.html You can see an example here, said to be 1 of 25, sold by Christie's in 2012. Sporting a couple of updates, the new El Primero sticks with the vintage formula and offers an homage to a hard-to-find and rather desirable piece from Zenith's past.

Based around a 42mm case, the El Primero 410 is a textbook nod to a successful design from the early 70's. On this modern version, the sub dials appear a bit smaller, but that could be attributed to the larger dial. The dial remains a slate grey, with updated hour markers and a cleaner use of dial text. There is a date display between four and five, as well as day and month apertures above the sub dials at three and nine. Joining the calendar, a moon phase display is incorporated into the six o'clock (12 hour) chronograph sub dial.

The layout is nearly identical to the legacy model, even down to the star emblems placed next to the calendar displays. The dial is finished with a red chrono seconds hand that trades the lume block of the vintage piece for a Zenith star counterbalance that is more in keeping with their current designs. The 410 LE is a great looking reference to Zenith's heritage and I think they've selected an excellent design that blends the sporty El Primero chronograph aesthetic with a traditional feature set like the full calendar and moon phase.

Supporting these features is the El Primero 410 automatic chronograph movement with 31 jewels, 390 components and a power reserve of 50 hours. Visibile through a sapphire display back, the 410 beats at 36,000 vph, a rate that has become a signature of Zenith's El Primero line. The 410 LE also features a sapphire crystal with a dual side anti-reflective treatment and water resistance of 100m. I have always enjoyed Zenith's ornate but functional sense of style and the 410 LE is a good example of this duality.


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The 410 LE has a very busy dial showing a variety of information that is offered in a manner that is both legible and functional. From the large time display to the chronograph sub dials, the features are meant to be enjoyed as a detailed whole but the user can quickly segment each feature for its intended use. I generally prefer simple and highly functional designs, so I have to hand it to Zenith as they often balance a functional display along with the inclusion of complex and eye catching elements and finishing.