Wednesday, July 30, 2014

IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia Watch



What you are seeing here is the most complicated IWC watch ever created. It is called the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia (ref. 5041) and it will be available only via custom order. IWC Replica Watch recently launched it at a powerful celestial observatory in Chile, and it represents a new high-mark for the brand. While the watch itself is very interesting, the lesson it can teach us about how high-end watch brands operate is even more interesting.

According to IWC a team of watch makers spent about 10 years researching and developing the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia mechanism. While at least one other IWC watch offers more complications, the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia is a much more complicated watch. Strictly for the die-hard collector, this timepiece according to IWC CEO Georges Kern is a “dreamlike” machine. It holds within it the values a serious watch brand wishes to convey as well as those aspirational qualities that a super high-end watch should have. It is meant to be an item of wonder, something that beguiles and intrigues more than something which has a serious utilitarian use.

In a candid interview Georges Kern has recent with Swiss paper Le Matin, he spoke clearly as to the purpose of the Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia watch. It is to attract people to the brand, show off IWC’s technical capabilities, offer media bait as something to discuss, and provide an ultra-exclusive piece for the world’s top watch collectors (something which IWC did not previously offer). The project was never really intended to be a money maker. IWC will be happy to sell 10 of them per a year – and with the current market situation as it is, IWC expects most of them to go to Asian clients. The Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia will however also act as an eye lure at IWC brand boutiques around the world with it in the window.

IWC carefully chose the complications its new flagship piece was to offer. It has been well established that astrological complications are among the most alluring to high-end collectors and buyers. These complications tend to be less than necessary to their lives, but encapsulate the emotion and feeling one wants from a complex timing machine. There seems to be a strong connection to astronomical timing and prediction, that is shared among high-end watch lovers. I too am fascinated by such timepieces whose indications can predict or dictate what is happening in the skies. While purely emotional, it makes me feel like I have some special increased power over the heavens.

For this emotional reason IWC chose the Paranal Observatory operated by the European Southern Observatory in Chile to unveil the new creation. The watch and the observatory don’t have any specific connection to one another, but the themes are the same. Complex astrnomical watches should be debuted at a complex astronomical viewing instrument location.

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Kern’s purpose for the IWC Portuguese Sidérale Scafusia watch is sound, and I appreciate how openly he discussed the business aspects behind the timepiece’s creation. So you probably want to know a bit about the watch itself right? It is a fascinating device, and I imagine it will sit in its comfy container most of the time. Being manually wound, the box IWC ships the watch in will contain a special crown winding mechanism so that it is always powered. Winding boxes for manually wound movements are rare, but a highly appreciated accessory for a watch like this.

Sinn 358 Chronograph Watches

Sinn 358 Chronograph Watches   watch releases
Almost under the radar comes this new Sinn 358 watch. Did I intend to make that initial statement because this is a pilot watch? No but it works. I love timepieces like this that are all tool and do not look like they are made to be worn by tools. German Sinn watches continue to make me happy for mostly dismissing the pressures of the high-end watch world to upmarket all decent watches out there. Not that Sinn watches are cheap, but rather that they mostly feel fairly priced.

The 358 collection is a good sign because it shows Sinn increasing the sizes of a few of their core collection watches. In essence, the 358 is a larger version of the outgoing 356. http://www.wristwatchline.co/breitling.html At 42mm wide, the 358 offers a more modern and Western-appealing version of the 356′s 38.5mm wide case. The case is done in bead-blasted steel and comes with an acrylic domed crystal. Why acrylic? Sinn claims it is better for shock-resistance, but they also thankfully offer a sapphire crystal as an option (standard on some models). Actually to be perfectly accurate each of the three 358 models have different “standard” parts. Though it seems as though most of those parts and features can be optioned around. Basically you can get the model 358 of your choice through Sinn easily enough via a special order.

Another option is an air dehumidifying system that Sinn uses in many of its watches to remove potential moisture that can build up in the dial and cause condensation or fogginess. This can be a problem during quick rises or descents in a plane or just when rapidly changing climates (think of walking outside into hot humid air from an air-conditioned building). You can learn more about this technology here, and Sinn watches with it will have a little “Ar” logo on the dial. By the way, Sinn Ar watches only come with sapphire crystals.

Water resistant to 100 meters, the 358 is also highly antimagentic (with the solid caseback), and low pressure resistant. These are serious tool watches for serious use. The basic 358 model is called the 358 Pilot, which then goes up to the 358 Sa Pilot (Sa stands for “sapphire”), topping out with my favorite model, the 358 DIAPAL. I went into some detail a few years ago on what DIAPAL is here. You can read about it direct from Sinn here. DIAPAL is basically a oil-free (no lubrication) escapement that Sinn developed some years ago. Others have followed suit. This increases the lifespan of the watch and ensure more trouble-free usage. Sinn gives each of their DIAPAL watches metallic charcoal gray dials so you can them apart easily. I love the idea of these system in watches as such as this. The 358 Diapal is the top-of-the-line model in this collection and when combined with a metal bracelet is sure to be a hell of a watch. Don’t forget it also has a GMT hand that is easy to miss.

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Speaking of bracelet, these watches are available with a range of straps and a single metal bracelet option at this time. The dial is classic, legible, and stately. It is probably the epitome of German watch incarnate. Little details come out with close inspection such as how the chronograph subdials are all different and optimized for easy reading. People today will feel it is a bit retro, but that is totally in. I have a feeling they will find it fashionable as well, something which is good, but also nothing Sinn seems to be concerned with.

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Wednesday, July 23, 2014

HYT H1 Hydro Mechanical Watch



Allow me to officially debut liquid timekeeping to you. I teased the HYT H1 watch here recently by showing off the movement and the teaser video (more images there too). Now I can show you the full watch and discuss all that it is. In short, the HYT (Hydro Mechanical Horologists) brand will be dedicated to producing watches with liquid in them. The debut model is called the H1.

HYT CEO Vincent Perriard called the first "new" Concord watch the C1 when he was the CEO there a few years ago. https://www.repwatchesguy.is/tag-heuer.html There is a lot of similarity here in terms of the modernist conceptualization and presentation of the concept. Though the H1 is something altogether new. The watch uses a liquid filled chamber to display the hours using luminescent green goo in a circular tube. Two bellows are used to push and pull the liquid to show the time on the scale. These bellows are operated by the movement. The minutes are displayed in the center of the face with a dedicated dial, and there is a water turbine style subsidiary seconds hand to the left of it. On the right is a power reserve indicator for the mechanical movement.

Nothing like this has been done before. HYT claims that there are seven pending patents for this watch alone. The brand worked with a number of consultants to produce the movement. They have fancy names like Preciflex and Chronode - and are among the elite group of horological engineers in Switzerland that are able to make stuff like this a reality. This is probably one of the most interesting watches to view while adjusting the time.

Pistons in the movement move the bellows. As one expands the other one compresses which moves the liquid. The green colors comes from "fluorescein" which I am going to venture to say is not safe to drink. According to HYT the watch is designed with as much shock protection as possible to ensure the systems are kept safe and that you can wear the watch as normal.

Bremont ALT1-WT World Time Watch



For all intents and purpose this new Bremont ALT1-WT is the commercial version of the exclusive Bremont C-17 Globemaster watch that I discussed here. While the C-17 (C17) Globemaster was not to be available for public purchase, the ALT1-WT will be. The watch takes the brand's signature aviator style and adds a world time bezel and GMT indicator into the mix of complications.https://www.choopopwatches.co/product-category/hublot/ It makes for a very good travel watch and I am glad that Bremont decided to offer a version of the Globemaster for "everyone else."

The ALT1-WT will be positioned as one of Bremont's new for 2012 watch models. But there will be other models as well. The differences between this model and the Globemaster are minor - being mostly the caseback and dial changes as far as I can tell. Bremont makes it clear that this watch is an adoption of the C-17 Globemaster. The case done with specially hardened steel and is 43mm wide. The most recognizable element is the rotating city ring that is to be used in conjunction with the 24 hour hand. This gives you the time all around the world at a glance and the design here is well-done. Bremont uses their Roto-Click system for the inner rotating bezel that offers distinct positions for the bezel turns. It is a nicely satisfying little detail. You can tell that the city ring is different on this model compared to the Globemaster (that has airport indicators).

You can see that the "globe" motif on the watch face is also carried over from the Globemaster - this is likely to become a signature design feature of the watch. I like that the hour markers are prominent and applied, and that the hands and hour markers are all richly coated with lume. You also have rather good proportions in all the hands. I am a bit concerned that because the chronograph seconds hand and GMT hand have arrow tips they might be easily confused when wanting to read the second time zone at a glance. As is the case with most Bremont watches the domed sapphire crystal will be richly AR coated.

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Inside the watch is the Bremont caliber BE-54AE automatic movement that is a base ETA with a module that has been finely finished and regulated by Bremont. They always offer really nice movement decoration, and this one again will be visible through the sapphire caseback window. The movement will further be a COSC certified Chronometer. Going back to the dial I still really like the shape of the date window (it is dated from the HUD display on C-17 planes).

Thursday, July 17, 2014

Cartier Astrotourbillon Carbon Crystal Limited Edition Watch



Cartier recently wowed watch nerds with the rather impressive Cartier ID Two concept watch. Those with the budget to even theoretically purchase one are likely to be disappointed that the ID Two (like the ID One watch) will never be for sale.However, at the same time Cartier announced the ID Two, it also announced the limited edition Rotonde de Replica Cartier Astrotourbillon Carbon Crystal watch that incorporates some of the technology and will be for sale.

The Cartier Astrotourbillon (hands-on here) originally came out about two years ago. The super cool watch had an in-house Cartier made movement that was a re-think of the traditional tourbillon escapement. The "astrotourbillon" - as they called it - was an escapement mechanism that spun around the periphery of the dial as a running seconds indicator, just like a hand. Personally, I instantly fell in love with the concept when seeing it in action for the first time at SIHH. Last year Cartier released a Calibre de Cartier Astrotourbillon (hands-on) version of the watch in the Calibre style case. That same case style by the way is what Cartier used for the ID Two.

The Astrotourbillon Carbon Crystal watch will come in a 47mm wide niobium-titanium case. I believe this is the same material Cartier used for the ID One. This is a shiny looking special form of titanium that looks pretty kick-ass actually. It also sounds like a mineral some evil corporation would travel to another planet to unethically extract. But I digress (well it is more plausible sounding than "unobtainium")... The look of the watch is actually very legible and masculine with its white and gray tones. The hands and Roman numeral hour indicators are bright and easy to see. The Astrotourbillon is much more visible than ever because the center dial "island" has been skeletonized and more of how the movement works is viewable. This looks like how the Astrotourbillon was always meant to be appreciated. It is hard not to love this watch. With their considerable capital and clever designers, Cartier continues to impress us with their high(er)-end division timepieces that actually do successfully combine traditional Cartier grace with mechanical excellence and interest.

Carbon crystal (which again is Cartier's own name for diamond coated silicon) is used to produce the tourbillon bridge, pallet assembly parts, and escapement wheel. The escapement as a whole does not require any lubrication and is adjustment free (which was the main accomplishment of the ID One). So you can see that the technology has in a sense trickled down to obtainable watches. The first brand that I know of to promote its use of diamond-coated silicon is Ulysse Nardin - who basically purchased a company that makes it. Cartier is said to work with a company called Diamaze for its carbon crystal. I think they feel that silicon (silicium) parts are becoming too common, and for marketing purposes wanted to use another name - especially because from a visual perspective silicon parts are usually blue, and these are clear.

Batman The Dark Knight Rises Limited Edition Jaeger-LeCoultre Watch



For many people, today July 20th, 2012 is another "Batman" day as the latest movie hits theaters. The third Chris Nolan Batman movie opens and brands are eager to capitalize on Bat-fever. In the The Dark Knight Rises Bruce Wayne (played by Christian Bale) wears a Replica Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grande Date. I look forward to seeing if that is a noticeable detail.

On the rear of the flippable case is an engraved and lacquered Batman logo as is used specifically in The Dark Knight Rises movie. The front of the case is the art-deco looking black dial of the Ultra Thin Tribute to 1931 watch. It comes in a steel case, and should be a nice piece to wear for those who want to recall (supposedly) the final of the three Chris Nolan Batman movies.

Surprisingly this is not the first watch Jaeger-LeCoultre made for a Batman movie. A very similar limited edition Reverso watch was made several years ago when Batman Forever was released. The press release from Jaeger-LeCoultre isn't clear on how many pieces will be made or where they will be available. However, it does hint to the fact that they should be in Jaeger-LeCoultre brand boutiques in Los Angeles, London, Geneva, and Hong Kong.

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Friday, July 11, 2014

Autodromo Monoposto Limted Editon Watch

Autodromo Monoposto Limted Editon Watch   watch releases
When Autodromo debuted earlier this year, they did so with an interesting and distinct line of watches that were exclusively quartz powered. Nine times out of ten, the average watch nerd would likely prefer a mechanically powered watch and this is just what Autodromo has announced with their newest model.http://www.wristwatchline.co/breitling.htmlThe new Autodromo Monoposto is the brand's first mechanical model and it is a beautiful one at that.

The Monoposto is built around a 43 x 10 mm stainless steel case with wire-style lugs and a distinctly vintage vibe (aside from the admittedly modern sizing). Exposed above the dial is a domed KL glass crystal which has a sapphire coating. "Monoposto" translates to "single seat" and the crystal on the Monoposto features a red strip that is meant to recall the days before race cars had rev limiters. Mechanics had to apply a red strip to the glass on a car's tachometer so that the driver would have a way to quickly check if they were pushing the engine too hard. While I think that this may cause some confusion (at-a-glance) with the also-red seconds hand, the overall look is pretty cool and it certainly fits the aesthetic they have developed across the Autodromo line up.

The Monoposto is powered by a Miyota 821A Japanese automatic movement which offers a three-hand display with date and a power reserve of 42 hours. The 821A is a new revision of the 8215 auto we have used seen in many watches in the past. Like the 8215, the 821A does allow for hand winding but does not offer hacking (a stopping of the seconds hand when the crown is pulled out for time setting). With a quoted timekeeping of -20~+40 seconds a day, the 821A is certainly an entry level movement, but it should prove to be as dependable and cheap to service as its predecessor. Additionally, the Monoposto is fitted with a display case back which allows a view of the movement within.

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Autodromo is making just 500 examples of the Monoposto, half with a black dial and half with silver. Selling directly through Autodromo's website, the Monoposto costs $875 USD and includes a leather strap and a numbered presentation box. I think the Monoposto is beautiful and certainly Autodromo's best looking watch to-date. The wire lugs, domed crystal and minimal dial design are perfect and nicely exhibits the care and attention to detail that Autodromo invested in the Monoposto design. Given the price point, it would have been nice to see a sapphire crystal or even an uprated Miyota 9015 ticking within. That said, the fairly lack-luster movement is made good my a beautiful design that should appeal to anyone who loves the idiosyncrasies and beauty of vintage automotive design.

Sunday, July 6, 2014

Linde Werdelin SpidoLite II Tech



 Linde Werdelin has announced two new limited edition models for their SpidoLite II series of luxury sport watches. The new LW SpidoLite II Tech features two variations of a watch that takes the recognizable SpidoLite II platform and moves it into the next generation as far as case construction and materials are concerned. http://www.iwatchclone.co/more-brands/tag-heuer-clone The SpidoLite II Tech boasts case composition which employs both forged carbon and Linde Werdelin's own ALW, a proprietary metal alloy that is the result of two years worth of research and development.

The Tech series shares the same 44 x 15mm case proportions as the rest of the SpidoLite II family and shares a similar look with a two-piece skeletonised dial, sub seconds at nine, and a date display at three. What sets the new Tech models apart is their high tech case construction, which is comprised of an inner case made of ALW (Alloy Linde Werdelin) and an outer case fashioned from forged carbon fibre. ALW is an metal alloy that Linde Werdelin reports to be 50% lighter than titanium while still being as strong as steel. The inner case assembly of the SpidoLite II Tech is hardened to offer a final assembly that is not only stronger than steel, but also colored either red or green (the colorful inner case can be seen through the skeletonised elements of the forged carbon exterior, very cool).

The outer case may carry the same skeletonised design that we've seen on past SpidoLite models, but it is now produced out of extremely light and strong forged carbon. The design then branches off to create two distinct variations including the Gold, which is fitted with an 18k rose rose gold bezel and crown, or the Green, which has a stealthy black ceramic bezel and a titanium crown that has been treated to a ceramic coating. The movement used for the SpidoLite II Tech is the same LW 04 used in other SpidoLite II models and is manufactured for Linde Werdelin by the Swiss movement maker Concepto.

New Cyrus Kambys Watch Will Be Part Of Only Watch



Cyrus, a boutique high-end Swiss watch brand will soon unveil their new Kambys watch at Baselworld 2013 with a movement designed by the very well regarded Mr. Jean-Francois Mojon.http://www.wristwatchline.co/breitling.html Using a curved case typical to the brand, the 50mm wide watch contains an impressively designed movement produced (according to the brand) 100% in-house (rubies and all).

This is also the very first timepiece that has been announced that will be part of the Only Watch 2013 auction in Monaco. According to Cyrus, the very first model in this limited edition Kambys collection will be auctioned off at the event in September.

The most interesting element of the Kambys is the power reserve indicator. The manually wound caliber 7778 movement has a power reserve of seven days. It uses three stacked cylinders on the right-side of the case which slowly fall as the power reserve indicator goes from full to empty. We wouldn't call it a technical improvement, but it is merely something new and interesting for otherwise bored watch lovers. The caliber 7778 movement doubles as the watch dial, offering the time with subsidiary seconds dial and another feature that Cyrus call their "secret animation." Using a pusher in the left-side crown, the disc located at about 10 o'clock spins to reveal one of three pictures. One image is the Cyrus brand logo, the next is an image of their brand mascot (a 2,500 year old coin) and last, the number of the piece in the limited edition. According to Cyrus, if any of this bores you, then they are happy to produce custom secret animation images for you.

The Cyrus Kambys watch will be limited to 188 pieces in each of the case materials. Which will be titanium, DLC black coated titanium, as well as 18k red gold. A timepiece like this is in many ways a pure collector's item for those interested in whimsical complications that express a sense of mechanical art versus technical prowess.

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