Thursday, August 28, 2014

Ultra Rare Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk Watch

This is why I love eBay, cause stuff like this shows up on it, and I have no idea how. You know that I love the Seiko Spring Drive Spacewalk watch that I initially discussed here, and then once again here when I announced that Seiko was going to offer a limited edition Spacewalk Commemorative Edition of 100 pieces. Seiko originally made just 6 of the watches. It was made for Richard Garriot and worn by him into space.

That specific piece sold for over $45,000 several months ago. It now looks one of the rare 100 Commemorative Edition pieces is being auctioned off on eBay, brand new. Starting bid is $27,500 - just shy of the roughly $28,000 - $29,000 that the new Spacewalk Commemorative Edition models retail for being just now released. 100 pieces, and they are going to very hard to find.

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Temption CM05 Watch



I have a really strong affinity to the small, independent German watch maker Temption. I have two of their watches, the CGK203 and the Cameo (click on those links for my reviews). https://www.wristwatchline.co/tag-heuer.html Each year they try to release a new model, and I eager await what they have to share. Last year it was the beautiful Cameo, and this year is the CM05. While the Cameo was a totally new design for the brand, the CMO5 is more of an evolution on their classic look. Emphasis here is on build quality, and the simple design aesthetic that made the Cameo as popular as it was.

Temption is proud that the CM05 is totally screwed together. There are no rivets, studs, or pressed points (though the sapphire crystal might be an exception). As such, you can see the screws in the caseback and all over the bracelet. The case itself is in high-grade steel and 42mm wide and 11mm tall (very wearable). The case is 100 meters water resistant as well. The sapphire crystal is 2.6mm thick and domed for strength (also AR coated on the inside). It is a satisfying look and makes for a good every day wear.

The dial reminds me of UTS watches, and is very Germanic. Simple and highly functional with a Bauhaus theme. The dial is a matte black with a black on black Temption logo and a small frame around the centrally mounted date window (that is also a black disc). Temption places a black disc over the central axis of the hands to hide the connection point. It is a new style for them, even though others have done it. It keeps the look of the face cleaner. The hour markers and hands have luminant applied to them. It is a modern looking watch dial in a very pure form, with a distinct emphasis on understated artistry - exactly what many men are looking for. It is actually easy not to appreciate the dial at first, but look at it, think about it, and then look at it again in a little while and then see how you feel.

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Wednesday, August 20, 2014

Cartier Must Autoscaph 21 Watch

Here is one of those interesting Replica Cartier Watches that you don't see very often. Out of production for maybe a decade now, this is a rare, true sports watch from the 'fancy watch brand.' Many of you might be familiar with the Must 21 collection from Cartier. The chronograph is probably the most well known of the line. Though the Autoscaph 21 is sportiest version around. An interesting mixture of traditional Cartier elements and a sporty look. Only thing that may prevent people from sporting the Autoscaph today is the size. Medium at best, the little guy is just a hair under 37mm wide. Then again, it is perfect for the modern lady if she likes it.

Set in a steel case with a nice polished black stone cabochon in the crown, this is a Cartier watch all the way through. The bezel visually integrates into the sloped flange chapter ring right under the sapphire crystal. The steel on steel look is nice, but makes the dial look pretty small. Which it is. A design experiment if anything. Makes for a petite look that is mostly popular with women these days, but still has qualities that many like. The bezel with its classic looking Roman numerals is a little hint that our friend here isn't a pure sports watch. Cartier DNA is still dominant. I love the use of the repeating Cartier 'double C' logo on the dial. Hour markers are applied and covered with SuperLumiNova. Aside from it being small, the sporty looking dial is quite legible. Note the magnification lens over the date window, and that the date disc is black with lighter colored numerals (you know I love that look). Cartier did the same thing on the newer,

Cartier gives the watch a weird bracelet/strap. The first part of each is a link style bracelet with metal center links and black rubber segments. At the ends of the bracelet it turns into a strap with a told over Cartier tension clasp. Why they didn't want to make it a bracelet completely, I am not sure.  The case is water resistant to 100 meters by the way. Inside the watch is a Cartier Calibre 2137 automatic movement that is liked a base Swiss ETA. Not too easy to find (especially in the US), the Cartier Must Autoscaph 21 is really only found in pre-owned examples. Prices are in the $1,000 - $2,000 as far as I can see.

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UTS GMT 1000M Watch



There are a lot of boutique dive watches available right now, many sporting the same cases, dials and movements. Smaller companies can't afford the cost of a custom design, so after a while many look the same. UTS, on the other hand, makes its own cases from steel ingots; you'll not see their designs used elsewhere. An interesting mix of angular lugs and round body, the UTS cases wrap nicely around the wrist and have a massive 5mm bracelet as a matching option.

UTS has recently announced a new addition to the 1000m line, the 1000m GMT using the ETA 2893 movement. Otherwise the same as the diver Ariel reviewed, (Ed. - readers, please note that contributor Paul Hubbard wrote this article) the 24h hand and small UTC track really add to the appeal of this watch. Available in a variety of dial and hand colors, the high-contrast white on black really does it for me.


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Add in the two year warranty, two-layer SuperLuminova lume, anti-reflective sapphire crystal and you've got a winner. At $2,250 on strap and $2,549 on bracelet, this is an excellent value for a custom design.

Size is a reasonable 42mm by 15.4mm, 200g on the bracelet. The movement is the tracteur ETA 2893, the standard for GMT movements. It's not ideal - I prefer the modified versions as found in Omegas that allow the main hour hand to be moved in 1-hour increments - but still useful for tracking two or three timezones.

Wednesday, August 13, 2014

Tissot Sculpture Line Moonphase “Baby Breguet” Watch



Likely no coincidence that Tissot Replica Watch created a timepiece like this and both Tissot and Breguet are under the same umbrella company - the Swatch Group. While Tissot is best known in the US for their awesome T-Touch timepieces,and other sport watches, they do actually offer some nice classy pieces as well (though a good deal of those are harder to find in the US). Tissot sits as a high-value, entry-level luxury watch portal for the Swatch Group. They are actually in sort of the same boat with Certina watches (also Swatch Group, but those are very hard to find in the US).

So new from Tissot is this Sculpture Line Moonphase watch - which I nicknamed the "Tissot Baby Breguet." Why? Well, because the design is just that. Tissot borrowed elements from Breguet such as the machine "guilloche" engraved textured dial, dial layout, and gold case. Yes, in fact this Tissot watch will come in an 18k white or rose gold case. Making this a top-level Tissot timepiece. Tissot timepieces don't often come in gold, so this is a rare type of model.

The watch case is 42.5mm wide and relatively thin at 11.5mm thick. The watch has a sapphire crystal and is water resistant to 30 meters. Unlike Breguet, the case is polished and smooth around the edges (Breguet likes a fluted edge on their watches). Tissot also changes up the dial design a bit with more modern looking baton hands (as opposed to pomme hands), and modified Breguet style Arabic hour markers. The off-centered power reserve indicator is retained near 10 and 11 o'clock, while the moonphase indicator has been elegantly built in to the subsidiary seconds dial. It makes for a handsome look highly reminiscent of the look that Breguet made famous.

Powering the watch is of course a mechanical movement. Here it is a modified Swiss Unitas 6498 manually wound movement. I have seen this movement (well, almost identical 6497) with a power reserve indicator (see this UTS watch here), but the addition of the moon phase indicator is new to me. The watch is matched to a brown crocodile (I think) strap with a gold butterfly clasp.

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Overall I quite like this watch - it has a nice satisfying design to it. Not sure about price, but I promise (promise) that it will be much less expensive than a Breguet. For a classy dial, solid gold case, and fine Swiss character, this Tissot Sculpture Line Moonphase watch might be the way to go. Just don't call it "Baby Breguet" to its face.

Ulysse Nardin Royal Blue Tourbillon Watch


Massive money and massive presence.This Royal Blue Tourbillon by Replica Ulysse Nardin Watch is a no-holds-barred super haute horlogerie watch by a brand not hiding the fact the watch is meant to be a statement. Love it or leave it, this watch is a jaw-dropper. Price is $1,000,000 big ones.

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Wednesday, August 6, 2014

Tissot Seastar 1000 Automatic Chronograph Watch

It does not surprise me that this year we get a new Seastar watch from Tissot, but this particular neat design wasn't expected. There is something retro about it - likely the thinner rotating diver's bezel - but it has a nice modern looking dial. Detail is pleasant and the functionality seems sound for this circa $1000 timepiece collection.

The dial will come in a few colors. Seen here are just two of them being black dial with white and blue accents, as well as the black and orange dial. Having two different tones of blue is a benefit to the black and blue one (call it bruised, I dare you). Tissot Replica Watches Features such as a small but present and sloped flange ring as well as slightly depressed subsidiary dials give the dial a higher end look. The dial is also pretty easy to read thanks for the slick layout. The hands and hour markers are coated with SuperLumiNova.

One this I don't get is the Seastar "1000" name. The case is water resistant to 300 meters not 1000. At least when you have a numerical value attached to the same of a dive watch you assume it related to the depth rating. In this instance that isn't the case and it is confusing. It would just be the Seastar Chronograph or something like that.

Tissot gave this new Seastar a hell of a case making it 48mm wide in steel with some black in the bezel. I am also told that a blue PVD coated steel case will also be available. I look forward to checking that piece out. The case design is pretty intricate and there is an automatic helium release valve on the side of the case which is a nice feature to have. The case also has a sapphire crystal.

Inside the watch is the newer Swiss ETA calibre C01.211 automatic chronograph movement. This is the same movement used in the popular Swatch Automatic Chrono watch that I reviewed here. The movement is designed to be a lower cost version of the ETA Valjoux 7750 - though it is actually based on the older Lemania 5100. Swatch needed to give the 7750 some visual marketability, so they intentionally left some things out of the C01.211. For instance that hour counter for the chrono goes up to 6 hours versus 12. Is there a technical reason for that? Not at all. But the 7750 loses steam if a movement much less expensive than it does the same thing. The C01.211 isn't as pretty at the 7750 of course, but does have a neat industrial look to it. Unlike the Swatch Automatic Chrono, Tissot decided to open up the back more for a full exhibition view of the caseback. They use an automatic rotor with a rich pattern on it to spruce up the movement.

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The watch comes with your choice of metal bracelet or rubber strap. I am not sure of all the options, but there should be a fair number of varieties of this watch. Tissot likes big releases with lots of options, so I expect the Seastar 1000 Automatic Chronograph to be no different.

Rolex Explorer 2 Watch


For 2011 Rolex offers a new Explorer 2 to follow up last year's new Explorer. While the Explorer was bumped up to 39mm last year, the Explorer 2 is the Replica Rolex sport watch with a modern size of 42mm in width. That is 2mm larger than the Submariner, and it likely wears better than the 43mm wide Submariner Deep Sea. Also new is the return of the orange GMT hand in addition to the Maxi-dial like size of the hands and hour indicators.

In a 42mm wide case, the Explorer 2 is in 904L steel with a mix of polished and brushed surfaces. While known for its white dial, the Explorer 2 now comes with a black dialed version as is traditional for the line - both in lacquer. Contrast on the dial on both models remains excellent, with the signature large orange GMT hand remaining on the dial. Both dials feature "Chromalight" luminant. The hands are all in white gold. I have had arguments with people about Rolex hands being in white gold. While not all of them are, many of the newer Rolex models have white gold hands. Says it right here in the Rolex material!

The case looks great with its steel on steel fixed 24 hour bezel. It is water resistant to 100 meters. Sapphire crystal is double AR coated and has a date magnifier lens. Inside the watch is an in-house made Rolex caliber 3187 COSC Chronometer certified automatic. It has the time, date, and GMT hand - and a 48 hour power reserve. Would have been great to see the watch have the glide-lock clasp of the Submariner, but then the Explorer would encorach on its territory.

It has a steel bracelet with an Oysterlock clasp and Easylink 5mm comfort extension link. Not sure exactly what that is yet, but it sounds like a nice microadjust system. Rolex offers yet another watch we all want. Funny how something like "42mm wide" is enough to get me excited in the Rolex context. This and the new Daytona styles are the big news for Rolex this year - the 36mm wide models are looking smaller and smaller!

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